How to Handle a Stray Cat
It can be hard to tell if a cat on the street is lost, feral, or just taking a stroll around its neighborhood. If you do end up finding a stray pet, however, your kindness could save its life and reunite it with its family. Stay safe and never try to catch the cat by hand: any cat can scratch or bite if panicked, and can spread disease to humans and other pets.
1. Tell the difference between a stray and a pet
Both lost strays and outdoor pets can be skittish or friendly, so it's hard to tell from behavior. The cat is probably a stray if its fur is messy or dirty, or if it looks skinny or injured. If the cat lets you touch it, check the paw pads. Stray cats that have lived outdoors for a few weeks will have hard, calloused feet compared to the soft paws of a family pet.
If the cat tries to hide, doesn't look at you, and doesn't meow, it might be a feral cat, that was never a pet. Keep an eye out for lost cat notices on store windows and telephone poles in your neighborhood, and in local newspapers and websites.
Be extra vigilant in winter. Strays are desperate for shelter and food at this time, and pets are unlikely to spend much time outside. Fresh tracks after a snowfall are an easy way to track strays if you get up before heavy traffic begins.
2. Try to approach the stray
If you think the cat is a stray, approach slowly while speaking in a soft voice. If the cat acts skittish, try bending down to its level. Hold out your hand and call it with a sweet voice. If that doesn't do it, return to the area later with a strong-smelling food, like tuna or dried liver.
Try different tones or pitches, as some cats respond better to a higher or lower voice, or even ‘meow’ sounds. Don't get too close if the cat seems tense or nervous. If the cat feels cornered, it may bite or scratch.
3. Check for tags
If the cat has tags and lets you get close enough to read the phone number or address, contact the owners to find out whether the cat is supposed to be outside. Some tags have the contact info for a veterinary clinic instead. The vet may not be legally allowed to give you the owner's contact info, but they can pass on a message.
4. Provide shelter, water, and catnip
This may help to keep a lost cat near you until you can assist it. Place the food outdoors very late at night, in a small space that a cat could access but a larger animal could not. In sub-zero temperatures, oil from a tin of sardines poured over kibble works well.
Do not leave food out until you suspect you have a stray, since this may just attract wildlife or feed other people's pets (who may be on controlled diets).
5. Consider contacting a professional
If you cannot approach the cat, you could ask Animal Control or a local animal shelter to capture it. Find out their policies before you make the call, especially if the cat does not have tags. Many shelters euthanize cats that do not seem adoptable. Others offer a more humane trap-neuter-release (TNR) program, so the cat returns outside but doesn't grow the feral cat population.
Shelters generally offer a better chance at a good life for strays than they find on the streets. In a shelter, the cat will not die of starvation, injuries, or exposure.
6. Set a trap yourself (if necessary)
If you would rather catch the cat yourself, buy a humane cat trap from a hardware store, or ask animal control if they have any available for loan. Cover the trip plate and wire bottom of the trap with newspaper, so that the cat won't instinctively avoid stepping on the trip plate. Bait the trap with a small amount of strong-smelling food — herring, mackerel, or sardines canned in oil (not pickled) are excellent choices.
Do not set the trip plate on a hair trigger; it's better to risk it not going off than to spook the cat. Too much food will create a mess if the cat panics. In very cold weather, cover the trap with a sheet or towel and heap snow over the covering to help keep the cat warm and calmer once trapped.
7. Check the trap frequently but carefully
Check the trap as often as possible, but approach slowly to avoid scaring away the cat at the wrong moment. If the trap doesn't work in a day or two, try disabling it and using a gradual approach:
- Every day at the same time (preferably dusk), put out food near the trap.
- Gradually move the feeding spot closer to the trap, and eventually inside it.
- If the cat won't go inside, try covering the trap with a towel sprayed with cat pheromone spray.
- Once the cat is eating consistently inside the trap, set it to trigger.
8. Decide what to do with the cat once it is trapped
Contact a local shelter to ask about local laws — in some areas you may be required to take lost pets to a shelter so the owner has a chance to find it. Make your decision based on the shelter's response and the cat's condition.
Keep the cat in the trap in a quiet, dark area while it waits. Minimize waiting time as this is stressful. A stray pet tends to have a dirty coat, meow, and make eye contact; a feral cat typically stays at the back of the cage and may shake or ignore people.
1. Handle with maximum caution
Even a friendly cat often panics in a trap. Wear heavy gloves and have a thick towel or blanket ready to throw over the cat if it tries to attack. Avoid picking it up whenever possible; if needed, follow the transfer steps: set carrier on end, scruff firmly (if trained), push down on back, lift rear-first into carrier and close quickly.
2. Set up a safe place for the cat to stay
Use a quiet, escape-proof room (spare bathroom or enclosed porch). Keep a comfortable seat for you, a hiding place (carrier on a shelf), water, litter, and minimal furnishings so it's easy to clean. The cat may be too stressed to use toys or scratchers at first.
3. Release the cat carefully
Wear gloves and position the trap or carrier away from you when letting the cat out. Most cats will retreat to a hiding spot. Keep exits controlled because cats move quickly.
4. Isolate the cat from other animals in the home
Disease can spread easily — ensure the safe room has no contact (even scent) with your other pets. Change shoes/clothes and wash exposed skin after leaving the room. If bitten, wash and seek medical advice about rabies immediately.
5. Allow the cat to calm down for a few hours
Enter quietly with food and a camera to take photos for owner search. Watch for warning signs of aggression (flat ears, wide pupils, crouched body) and leave if they appear. Hissing/growling usually indicates fear rather than imminent attack.
6. Try to locate the owner
Tell neighbors, have a vet scan for microchip ID, call local shelters, and put up "FOUND" flyers with a face photo. Check local lost sections and post to neighborhood social media — avoid sharing overly-identifying details other than face/color.
7. Respond to potential owners carefully
If someone claims the cat, quiz them about sex/markings or ask for a vet record to confirm. Beware false claimants. If the cat is unvaccinated/unfixed and was allowed outside when it shouldn't have been, contact a shelter — they may require medical procedures before returning.
8. Feed and care on a regular schedule
Bring food personally and sit quietly while the cat eats to build trust. A predictable routine helps the cat anticipate visits and associate you with food. Read quietly in a chair, move slowly, avoid eye contact, and keep interactions minimal until the cat relaxes.
9. Try to touch the cat slowly and carefully
It may take weeks of brief daily interactions before the cat is calm. Offer a tasty treat near the cat, bring your hand slowly closer as it tolerates, and eventually try gentle petting at shoulder blades. Pay attention to body language and stop if warnings escalate.
If the cat is truly feral (no collar, no meow, avoids people), there is significant risk — proceed only with skills or professional help.
10. Adopt the cat yourself (if no owner found)
If you've made reasonable efforts to find the owner (and complied with local law) and no one responds after a suitable period, you may adopt or arrange shelter placement. Have a veterinarian perform a full check (FeLV, FIV, distemper, rabies, worms) and vaccinate/treat as needed. Do not allow contact with other pets until checked. If unfixed, have the cat spayed/neutered. Gradually introduce the cat to your home, one room or animal at a time.
1. Confirm the cat is feral
Feral cats were never pets and often do not meow or meet human eyes. Their coats can be clean and well-kept. Look for telltale signs: unneutered tomcats (muscular build, stud tail), a clipped ear tip (sign of prior TNR), or females in colonies. Pregnant/lactating cats found alone are often feral.
2. Have the cat fixed (TNR)
If the cat doesn't have a clipped ear, take it to a vet to be spayed/neutered before release. TNR programs may offer low-cost or free surgeries. After surgery, keep the cat in the trap for minimal time (ideally <12 hours) and provide recovery shelter.
3. Keep the cat overnight after surgery
Cats need 24–48 hours to recover. Keep the trap/cage covered and in a warm, quiet room. Monitor for bleeding, breathing trouble, vomiting, or failure to wake — call the clinic if problems occur. Feed kittens shortly after waking; adults about eight hours after waking (only if safe).
4. Release the cat
Release adult feral cats where they were trapped; they usually cannot be fully socialized to indoor life. Disinfect the trap after use. If you cannot release in that location or want the cat relocated, consult a shelter — cats rarely do well when moved to a new area.
5. Assist the feral cat
Leave food and water near the location where the cat lives. In cold climates, provide insulated shelters and heated water bowls if possible.
6. Tame the feral cat (if possible)
If the cat is under ~4 months or shows friendliness, it may be possible to socialize. Start with vet care (deworm/vaccinate) then a slow introduction to the household, one room at a time. Fully feral adult cats are rarely appropriate for indoor adoption.
